In the course of writing my historical thriller, The Link, my grandiose plans soon birthed a number of roadblocks that threatened to detour the project. One of these was the locations. As soon as I determined that my story would be centred around the events leading up to the announcement of the Piltdown Man finds in 1912, the locations pretty much decided themselves: the story would be set in London (the home of the natural History Museum) and Lewes (the Sussex home of Charles Dawson who featured prominently in the affair.)
As I dove into the the plot, it became pretty clear
that the settings were also going to be core elements in the story. I couldn’t simply say
“McKay ran down a street”; I would need to be clear what street. In Lewes the Castle had to loom over all the action
and in London the Natural History Museum would be virtually a character in the
story. I had to convey a real sense of place and atmosphere.
I couldn’t justify
the cost of a trip from Sydney, so I started collecting contemporary maps and
photographs. For a couple of
years I was resigned to the reality that, distance and money being what they were, I would have to live with photos, maps and my meagre imagination as the sources for the places in The Link.
Toward the end
of 2008 the Baker Street Irregulars, that venerable New-York-based Sherlock
Holmes society, announced that it would be launching my Australia and Sherlock Holmes at its annual Sherlockian
celebrations the following January. My co-editor on that book, Bill Barnes, and I started
talking about how great it would be to actually be there for the launch. Before
you could say “The red-headed league is dissolved,” we had agreed to make the
trip. And as long as I was going that far, why not continue around the world,
stopping at the Sherlock Holmes Society of London’s annual dinner? And then . .
. Well, you can see where I’m going with this.
So it was that on
Friday, January 16 2009, I climbed the broad steps of the Natural
History Museum on Cromwell Road in South Kensington and stepped inside
London’s venerable house of nature. The bogus Piltdown fossils lay in a
cabinet somewhere in the building and it was important for me to acquaint
myself with them, but just as important was my need to soak up the
atmosphere and details of the museum itself.
Humans in any
era have a remarkable capacity for building structures of surpassing ugliness,
monuments to misguided vision that the following generation just can’t wait to
swing a wrecking ball at. The Natural History Museum is not one of these. It
is, in fact, a brilliant example of a purpose-built building, a place supremely
fitted for its job. Opened in 1881, it
is a temple to the natural world.
The
building’s two imposing wings converge on a pair of square spired towers that flank an
expansive arched public entranceway. The exterior stone is faced with terracotta
and cobalt-blue tiles. Inside the doors you pass immediately into the great
hall, a vast chamber 170 feet (52m) long with a high vaulted ceiling. The huge space
is largely empty except for a cast of a full-sized 80-foot long (24m) dinosaur skeleton
- a diplodocus. Affectionately known as Dippy, it was a gift of the American
industrialist Andrew Carnegie in 1905 and has presided over the great hall ever
since. The only other bit of ornamentation is a white marble statue of Charles
Darwin himself, gazing benevolently over the proceedings from his seat on the far landing.
The great hall in the Natural History Museum. Darwin's statue resides at the far end on the landing. |
Perhaps the most
amazing aspect of this building is its ornamentation. Terracotta animals, birds,
fishes and plants are scattered liberally over the interior and exterior surfaces.
Ivy snakes up columns, monkeys gaze wickedly down from cornices, fleet-footed
little dinosaurs sprint along the walls. Even the ceiling panels
bear painted elements of nature, both extant and extinct.
My host was Robert
Kruszynski, a curator in anthropology at the museum. He led me to his office in
the bowels of the building where he presented me with a stack of cardboard boxes.
After a quick tour of the contents, he left me alone with the sacred artifacts.
“Take as much time as you need,” he said affably. And I did. I describe the various Piltdown pieces
in The Link and I’ll wax poetic about
my hands-on experience with them in a future blog.
I
returned to the Museum the following day and haunted its halls and galleries, trying
to picture what it would have been like in 1912: bowler-hatted men in starched
collars rushing by on their Museum business; young mothers with their troops of
restless children and long-suffering governesses trying to make the best of a
rainy day; eager-eyed students of antiquity hovering over the display cases,
notebooks and pencils in hand.
The London Docks in 1882 |
The Museum would
be my main story location in London. For other places, such as the defunct
Mark Lane underground station and the London Docks, which had been filled in for
development during the 1970s, a visit was impossible. I needed to fall back on my imagination again.
On the Sunday
afternoon I followed Stephen McKay’s example and caught the train from Victoria
Station – not the London, Brighton
and South Coast Railway this time: simply Southern – arriving an hour or so
later at Lewes. And like McKay, I trudged up Station Street, turned left at the
High Street and checked into the White Hart Hotel.
The White Hart, Lewes High Street (2009) |
Based on photographs, Lewes hasn’t changed much since 1912. It is a
quiet country town with a population today of about 16,000. Harveys still brews
traditional bitter and ales and the White Hart still welcomes guests in
accommodations much like what McKay experienced.
I had already plotted the story by this time, so I knew my locations. I
just had to visit them in person.
My first stop, for very good reasons, as you’ll know if you’ve read The Link, was Lewes Castle. Built
shortly after the 1066 Norman conquest by one of William of Normandy’s
companions, it served the local barons well over the following centuries but
fell into disuse and by the end of the 16th century it was already described as
a ruin. Today it crouches on the highest point of land in the town and, diminished
though it be, it still dominates the area. Only two of the original three
towers survive along with the walls connecting them, and those are much broken down. The rest of the walls are almost completely destroyed.
The walled structure encloses the keep, an open circular lawn
dominated by a massive lime tree at its centre. I could not wait to climb the
winding path up the 50-foot high castle mound and soak up the atmosphere of the
keep.
Lewes Castle from the bottom, with the unclimbable path under construction |
But it was not to be. Health and safety regulations and a view to
modernisation had mandated that the path be rebuilt, so I was confronted with a
“Do Not Enter” sign and a bunch of workmen toiling away at the ruined path. I was
informed by the nice folks in neighbouring Barbican House, home of the Sussex Archaeological
Society which owns the castle, that for reasons of insurance liability no
exceptions could be made, even for an author who has traveled all the way from
Australia. Once again I would need to rely on old
photographs, in this case a single one.
Lewes Castle keep (early 20th century). Note the policeman. |
Castle Lodge (2009) with Lewes Castle above. |
Up the path a bit, if you peer over the stone wall faced with local
flints and topped with rounded bricks, you can spot Castle Lodge, the home in 1912 of the famous Charles
Dawson, discoverer of Piltdown Man. In my novel I have described the house in
some detail based on historical photos and documents, but I was reluctant to
poke my camera – or indeed myself – through the gate out of respect for the owners,
for it is still a private home.
In the three pleasant days I spent in Lewes, I managed to check out a
number of iconic spots in town and get a sense of the place, including some of
its historic public houses.
There was one more disappointment. On a cold, drizzly January afternoon I spent a soggy hour wandering through the quiet churchyard of St John Sub Castro (“under
the castle”) Church, peering at
ancient gravestones but I failed to find Dawson’s grave. Since I returned
home, I managed to locate its photo, taken by more perceptive observers.
St John's churchyard. Charles Dawson is in there somewhere. |
St Nicholas Lane, where Parker & McKay encountered some small difficulties |
Lewes High Street (2009) |
Countryside at the edge of town (2009), where in 1912 a company of vandals launched a furtive night-time raid. |
Castle Gate looking toward the Barbican Gate (2009). Castle Lodge just visible to the left. Barbican House on the right, impenetrable construction barrier on the left. |
The Link is published by Loquat Valley Books, 2012. You can pick up a copy here.